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High view over Nha Trang's curving beach, with a hotel tower on the left and turquoise water stretching to the hills.

A journal from the coast of Vietnam

Wake up just in time for the sea.

Nha Trang is a beach city that starts its day at five. Islands on the horizon, Cham temples by the river, fish cakes in the broth. This is our guide to the city as people here live it.

12°14′N 109°11′EBegin

Welcome to Nha Trang

A working fishing town that happens to have one of Vietnam's best city beaches.

Most visitors meet Nha Trang through its long seafront and the hotel towers behind it. Stay a little longer and a different city appears: basket boats pulled up on the sand at dawn, the smell of grilled fish from the side streets, incense drifting from the Cham towers above the Cái River.

Just in Nha Trang is a journal about that city. We write about where to go, what to eat, the traditions that shape the coast and the people who keep it running, so you can plan a trip that goes beyond the beach.

Why we started this journal
Dozens of blue fishing boats moored in a calm bay, with the city and mountains behind.
A long bridge crossing the river mouth under a sky of scattered clouds, with green trees in the foreground.
Where
South-central coast of Vietnam, Khánh Hòa province
Getting here
Cam Ranh International Airport, roughly 35 km south of the city
Driest months
Usually January to August; heavier rain from October to December
Pace
Early. The beach is busiest before seven in the morning

01Destinations

Beaches, islands and old stone

Start with the bay, then go looking for the rest: temples on the hills, rock gardens on the shore and quiet water a boat ride away.

All destinations
A long sandy beach curves toward high-rise hotels, with waves rolling in under a cloudy sky.

City centre, along Tran Phu Street

Nha Trang Beach

Bãi biển Nha Trang

The long curve of sand in front of the city, at its best before breakfast. How to spend a day on the main beach, from the first swim to the evening walk along Tran Phu.

Weathered brick Cham towers surrounded by green trees.

Cu Lao hill, north bank of the Cai River

Po Nagar Cham Towers

Tháp Bà Ponagar

A Cham temple complex on a hill above the Cai River, still a place of worship nearly a thousand years after its main tower was built. What to see and how to visit respectfully.

A cluster of granite boulders on the shore, with turquoise water and mountains behind.

Vinh Phuoc, north of the city centre

Hon Chong Promontory

Hòn Chồng

A jumble of granite boulders on the shore north of the city, with a legend about a giant's handprint and one of the best sunrise views in Nha Trang.

Also in the guideLong Son PagodaNha Trang CathedralThe Islands of Nha Trang BayDam MarketBa Ho Waterfalls

02Local food

What Nha Trang eats, morning to night

The city's cooking is built on the morning catch. Four dishes to look for, and what makes the local versions different.

The food guide
Scallops on the half shell cooking on a grill.

No. 01

Hải sản Nha Trang

Seafood by the sea

Charcoal smoke, lime, salt and chilli, and shellfish that was in the sea this morning.

A bowl of rice noodle soup with slices of fish cake and herbs.

No. 02

Bún chả cá

Fish cake noodle soup

A clean, sweet fish broth with springy fish cake, fresh herbs and a hit of chilli.

Rows of small clay pots on a charcoal stove, each cooking a little rice pancake.

No. 03

Bánh căn

Clay-mould rice cakes

Crisp edges, a soft centre, and a sweet and sour dip with green mango.

Skewers of pork sausage cooking on a grill.

No. 04

Nem nướng Ninh Hòa

Grilled pork rolls of Ninh Hoa

Smoky, sweet pork, crunchy herbs and fruit, and a thick, savoury dipping sauce.

03Culture & experiences

Traditions the sea still keeps

Festivals at the Cham towers, round bamboo boats, whale temples in fishing villages. Culture here is part of the working week.

All culture stories
A round woven basket boat with a painted registration number rests on the sand by the sea.

Craft & livelihood · Year-round, best seen early morning

The round boats of the bay

Thúng chai

Woven from bamboo and sealed with resin, the thúng chai basket boat is still a working tool on the Nha Trang coast. A look at how it is made, used and spun.

Read the story

04People & local stories

The city before breakfast

Nha Trang runs on early starts. Short portraits of the fishermen, market sellers and morning swimmers who set its rhythm.

All local stories
A fisherman in a round basket boat pulls in his net under a red sun low over the sea.

Nha Trang seafront

When the boats come in

Before most of the city is awake, the night's fishing boats return to Nha Trang. A portrait of the hour when the catch is landed, sorted and sold on the sand.

Motorbikes and shoppers move through a busy market street lined with stalls.

Đầm Market and the old quarter

Market mornings

In Nha Trang's local markets, the best trading happens early. A portrait of the sellers who arrive in the dark and the morning ritual of buying the day's food.

A crowded harbour of small blue fishing boats below green hills.

Islands of Nha Trang Bay

Life on the other side of the bay

A short boat ride from the city, the islands of Nha Trang Bay are home to fishing communities with their own pace. A portrait of island village life between ferries.

Small waves break on a quiet beach under a clear blue sky, with a few swimmers in the water.

Tran Phu beach

The five o'clock swimmers

Long before the sunbeds go out, the city beach belongs to locals. Swimmers, walkers and exercise groups make the early morning the liveliest hour on the sand.

A vendor in a conical hat pushes a bicycle loaded with goods across a street.

City streets

The kitchens on wheels

From breakfast noodles to late-night snacks, much of Nha Trang is fed by street vendors with carts, baskets and portable stoves. A portrait of the city's moving kitchens.

Meet more of Nha Trang

05Where to stay

Choose your stretch of coast

City seafront or a bay with no road in. A quick guide to the main areas, so you know what each one is like before you book anywhere.

Compare the areas
  1. Tran Phu seafront

    In the city centre

    A wide promenade beside the beachfront road, with a flag and high-rise hotels.
  2. Ninh Van Bay

    Around 20 minutes by boat from the mainland pier

    A floating fish-farm house on a green bay beneath forested hills.
  3. Bai Dai and Cam Ranh

    About 30 to 45 minutes by car from the city centre

    Golden sunrise over a long beach lined with parasols.
  4. Doc Let Beach

    About one hour by car north of the city

    A wide pale beach with gentle waves and hills on the horizon.

An editorial guide, not a booking service. We are not paid by any property we mention.

The sun rises through haze over a calm sea, with island silhouettes on the horizon.

The best hour in Nha Trang is the one before six in the morning.

The Letter from Nha Trang

Slow news from the coast, once a month.

New places and dishes, the festivals coming up, and the small things we noticed this month. Written for people planning a visit.