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A platter of grilled pork sausage rolls with rice paper, cucumber, green banana and dipping sauce.

02Food

A coastline you can taste

Nha Trang eats from the sea. Fish cakes in clear broth, rice batter crisping in clay moulds, grilled shellfish on a plastic stool at dusk. A guide to the dishes locals actually order.

Nem nướng platter (photographed in Thailand). Photo: Index Librorum Permissorum, CC0

5 dishesSeafood, Noodles, Street food, Grilled

Scallops on the half shell cooking on a grill.

No. 01

Hải sản Nha Trang

Seafood by the sea

Charcoal smoke, lime, salt and chilli, and shellfish that was in the sea this morning.

A bowl of rice noodle soup with slices of fish cake and herbs.

No. 02

Bún chả cá

Fish cake noodle soup

A clean, sweet fish broth with springy fish cake, fresh herbs and a hit of chilli.

Rows of small clay pots on a charcoal stove, each cooking a little rice pancake.

No. 03

Bánh căn

Clay-mould rice cakes

Crisp edges, a soft centre, and a sweet and sour dip with green mango.

Skewers of pork sausage cooking on a grill.

No. 04

Nem nướng Ninh Hòa

Grilled pork rolls of Ninh Hoa

Smoky, sweet pork, crunchy herbs and fruit, and a thick, savoury dipping sauce.

A jellyfish salad with cucumber, tomato and herbs on a white plate.

No. 05

Bún sứa

Jellyfish noodle soup

Light, clean broth, and jellyfish with a cool, crunchy bite that soaks up the flavour.

The sun rises through haze over a calm sea, with island silhouettes on the horizon.

The best hour in Nha Trang is the one before six in the morning.

The Letter from Nha Trang

Slow news from the coast, once a month.

New places and dishes, the festivals coming up, and the small things we noticed this month. Written for people planning a visit.