The festival of the mother goddess

The brick towers of Po Nagar sit on a low hill above the mouth of the Cái River, a short ride north of the city centre. On most days they are a peaceful place: a few visitors, the smell of incense, worshippers moving quietly between shrines. During the festival in the third lunar month, the hill changes character entirely.

Who is being honoured

The towers were built by the Cham, whose kingdoms once ruled much of what is now central Vietnam. The main temple is dedicated to the goddess Yang Ino Po Nagar, a mother goddess of the land. Over the centuries, Vietnamese communities also came to worship her, under the name Thiên Y A Na. Today the site is visited by Cham and Vietnamese worshippers alike, and the festival reflects both traditions.

That shared devotion is one of the most interesting things about Po Nagar. It is an archaeological site, a tourist attraction and an active place of worship, all at once.

What you may see

Festival days usually bring ceremonies at the towers, including the ritual bathing and dressing of the goddess’s statue, and offerings of fruit, flowers and incense. There is often traditional music and dance, with performers in Cham dress, and in some years other cultural performances in the grounds around the hill. Families come from around the region, many making the trip as an annual pilgrimage.

The programme varies from year to year, so treat any list of events as a guide only.

Come for the dancing if you like, but stay for the quiet moments in between, when people simply light incense and pray.

Visiting with care

This is a religious occasion first. The towers are small inside, and on busy days they are full of people who have come to pray. Move slowly, keep your voice down and give worshippers space. If you want photographs, the exterior of the towers and the open grounds are the best places, and a smile and a gesture of asking go a long way.

Outside festival time, Po Nagar is still worth a visit, ideally early in the morning when the brick glows warm and the hill is quiet. Read our destination guide for practical details.

Whenever you come, take a moment on the hill to look back toward the river and the fishing boats below. The view helps explain why this spot has mattered to so many generations.